Thursday, November 30, 2017

Closing Out November At Green Oaks Golf Course

On the last day of November 2017, I managed to squeeze in a quick nine ... Read more.

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Exotic Road Bike Shootout!!!

Firstly, would you look at that, it's another Outside column!


I certainly put the "pro" in prolific.

Secondly, on Monday I talked about the wood bike and since then I've performed some scientific experimentation.  Specifically, I took the fancy crabon wheels off of it and put them on my Ritte:


Which in turn made the Renovo the recipient of a pair of cheap pre-built Shimanos:


The idea here was two-fold:

1) See how much the Renovo owed its ride quality to the crabon;
2) Determine if said crabon is the source of the creaking I've been experiencing, since it had all the hallmarks of a rear hub issue scenario.

Let's address the simpler issue first: did swapping wheels eliminate the creak?  No, it did not.  The wooden bike still creaks.  So clearly something else is going on, and you can rest assured I'll be conducting a thorough investigation.

Putting that aside for the time being, let's go back to the wheels.  Here's what came on the Renovo:


And here's what I swapped them with:


As for how this Shimano technology trickled down to me, they're the wheels that came on my Milwaukee, and they generally sell for about $200.  Since then they've bounced around between my bendy-bar bikes, and they've been perfectly serviceable.

Of course I also had to swap the cassettes, since the wooden bike is 11-speed and the Ritte is 10-speed.  And yes, I remembered to swap the brake pads, since naturally you've got to use special pads with the crabon, which is the second-most annoying thing crabon wheel enthusiasts like to point out, just after reminding you to toe in the brakes.

As for tires, the crabon wheels have (or "wear," as the bike reviewers like to say, barf) 23mm Continental Grand Prix 4000s, and the Shimanos have (or "are shod in," which is even worse than "wear") 25mm Continental Gatorskins.

If you're wondering #whatpressureyourunning, I'll never tell.

NEVER!!!

Anyway, after putting everything together I first headed out on the wooden bike.  As much as I tend to be skeptical about fancy equipment, I figured I'd notice the $1,500 wheel downgrade immediately.  Not so.  Indeed, the bike felt more or less the same (and that includes the creaking, unfortunately), though I thought I detected maybe a bit less shock absorption on rough pavement--and when I say rough pavement, I mean it:


There are some fucked-up streets around here.

Then again, I couldn't be sure the bike felt a tiny bit harsher with the metal wheels, and even if it did maybe the real difference was the tires.  (I'm assuming the Grand Prix 4000s have a higher TPI than the Gatorskins, but I'm too lazy to look them up.)  Regardless, when you find yourself thinking that way it means whatever tiny differences may or may not exist don't mean shit.

What I did notice right away though was how much better the braking was with the metal wheels.  This isn't to say braking with the crabon wheels is bad; not at all.  It's perfectly predictable.  At the same time though it's loud--scraping, with some occasional howling.  It sounds like cantis in a muddy cyclocross race, but all the time.  I'm sure some people like that because they associate it with the raw performance of crabon, but to me it's at odds with the air of ostensible refinement the wooden bike seems to want to convey.  (And YES I'M USING THE GODDAMN CRABON-SPECIFIC PADS AND EVERYTHING'S TOED IN.)

In any case, I'd gotten used to this when riding the wood bike, so the first time I grabbed a couple handfuls of brake on a steep descent my immediate reaction was "Wow!"  Smooth!  Quiet!  And while I'd never accuse the crabon wheels of being grabby, the metal ones are noticeably more stable, or progressive, or linear, or whatever term you're supposed to use as a bike reviewer.  (I'm just gonna stick with "more good.")  In fact, it was so much more good that if anything I'd consider them an upgrade--especially when paired with those Ultegra Di2 levers.  Because while I could take push-button shifting or leave it, the shape of the levers happens to be fantastic.

Of course, there's a ready-made Fred response to all of this:


I absolutely agree that disc brakes are a solution to the issues carbon presents as a braking surface, but I'll also point out that IF YOU USE METAL WHEELS YOU DON'T NEED THE FUCKING DISCS.  Also, I enjoy the weight savings of my integrated rim/700c brake rotor, thankyouverymuch.

So in short, the ride quality was pretty much the same with the cheap wheels, and the braking was noticeably better.

Next, this morning, I did the exact same ride, only on the Ritte with the crabon wheels.  But before I address that, a few words about the Ritte, which looked like this when I took delivery of it in August 2011:


And which looks like this now:


Which is just a tiny bit ironic given the description on their website:


Other than that though it's been great, and maybe mine just looks that way because it's a prototype.

Regardless, once again it was the same experience: bike felt mostly the same, wheels might have been smoother but I could easily have been imagining it, and the brakes were loud.  Somehow though the loud braking kind of fit better with the Ritte, probably because it's all rusted to hell.  In fact between the corroded frame and the flashy wheels the bike took on sort of a rat rod street racer aesthetic that, quite frankly, I was enjoying. Was I enjoying it so much that I'd spend almost $1,800 on those wheels?  Not a fucking chance.  Still, I'd be remiss if I didn't mention it.

Oh, fun fact: according to Strava I climbed slightly faster on the wooden bike, so there you go.

So basically there are two lessons here: be wary of exotic frame materials, and don't bother with crabon wheels.

But you probably knew that already.



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How to Create a Daily Intention Setting Ritual

How to Create a Daily Intention Setting Ritual

Confession: I’m a crappy meditator. I fully believe in the power of meditation and when I do practice, I notice its impact. However, I don’t practice regularly. Part of me thinks it’s my rebel streak bucking the trend, the other part of me knows I just haven’t tried that hard to make it part of my life.

Because I suck at meditating, and really want something mindful to start my day with I recently started practicing a daily intention setting ritual. I wanted to share my process here because I think it would be super helpful for anyone who’s struggling to get into meditation and is still looking for a way to practice being mindful. It’s my way to ease into meditation and also do it my own way. To my fellow rebels out there feel free to take what you like from this and totally modify it in your own way. My goal is just to show options for mindfulness.


Excited to practice more mindfulness, starting with daily intention setting
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What is intention setting

Setting an intention is a tool to manifest how you want to feel during the day-to-day. On paper, you can be the most successful employee/mom/entrepreneur/wife/partner/friend, but what’s the point if you feel like crap doing it? It’s so easy to get caught up in the things, the outcome, the finish line. Yes, sometimes they require worthwhile sacrifices, but on the whole, it’s not worth living a miserable life for a moment of glory. The goal of mindfulness, meditation, and intention setting, is to slow down and live life on purpose. It’s this radical notion that you can be joyful and really enjoy your life even when it’s a work in progress.

It’s so easy, especially when you have a full plate and a busy schedule to hop right into work, right into your phone, right into the intensity of your life, without thinking about how you want to feel. Even scarier is how easy it is to forget why you’re doing what you do. A simple ritual of intentions setting can help you set a powerful, productive and positive tone for your entire day.

I know that when I start my day with a focused intention it helps me feel good about the work I’m doing. Some days I miss it, jump right into work and feel kind of scattered and anxious.

The cool thing about setting an intention is that it’s really never too late. Say you do start off your day with a whirlwind and you feel it getting away from you. That’s totally ok, and realistically you should expect days like that. When that happens you can step away for even just 5 minutes to reset your intention and spend the rest of the day operating from a higher place.

How to Set a Daily Intention

This part is totally up to you really. There aren’t any rules or intention police. If you want to set your intention in bed, go for it. On a walk? Do it. In a yoga class? Sounds amazing. While you brew your coffee? Sounds amazing.

Here’s what I do:

Get in the mood

A huge reason I like to set an intention, more than jump into meditation, is because it’s fun for me. I have created a morning I get excited about which is so important because I really struggle to wake up and get out of bed. Without an alarm, no joke I could sleep into 11 am. I get into the mood by putting on a fun upbeat song that I’m into at the moment. I’ll stretch a little, sing a little, dance a little.

Choose your intention

My next step is to go through my ritual. Right now I’ve been setting my intentions using these really fun cards called Affirmators*. They have great positive words, adorable illustrations, and fun, witty descriptions. I’ll fan out the cards, light my palo santo (you can use a candle, sage, whatever floats your boat), arrange the crystals I have and wave my left hand over the cards. I try to feel a heat or energy in my hand when I wave them over the cards. If I do I’ll pick that card. Lately, I’ve picked “Self-love” “Joy” “Confidence” “Love.”

Feel the feeling

I’ll read the card and really focus on that feeling. What does it really feel like in my body? What does it look like in my life? I close my eyes and really bathe in the word, breath in whatever candle or sent that’s going. Sometimes I write the word down in my planner, sometimes I just let it stick to me.

My favorite part of the cards is the element of surprise and unfolding that can happen. I love the idea of being guided in some way. I also have a free printable to make your own angel cards if you’re looking for something simple and free to get started with.

Craft Your Own Intention

If you’re feeling really inspired and know what you want to feel you can always set your own intentions without cards too. One of my frequent intentions is to go through the day with energy and joy, another is to move through the day with lightness and ease. That’s the fun part. You decide how you want to feel and show up that day.

All in all the ritual probably takes me less than 5 minutes if I put a song on before or after. It can be as quick as 1. I really have zero excuses not to start my day with purpose. I hope this tool is helpful if you’ve been looking for more accessible fun mindfulness practices.

If you have your own intention setting ritual I’d love to hear about it!

*this post contains affiliate links, which means I get a small percentage of the sale if you purchase through that link. Thank you for supporting In it 4 the Long Run.

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In The Mail: Wilson Duo Optix Golf Balls

In the mail for review this week was a box of Wilson Duo Optix golf ... Read more.

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Tag Heuer Formula 1 Men’s Watch

Tag Heuer Formula 1 Men’s Watch Tiger used to be the golf ambassador for the ... Read more.

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Wednesday, November 29, 2017

Hero World Challenge Preview 2017

Hero World Challenge Preview 2017 The 19th annual Hero World Challenge, held November 30 – ... Read more.

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The Leaf Bunker: Golf’s Most Insiduous Hazard

The Leaf Bunker is a golf course hazard peculiar to public golf courses in Michigan ... Read more.

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MGCOA Honors Arthur Hills, Kevin McKinley and The Majestic at Lake Walden

The Michigan Golf Course Owners Association honored renowned golf course architect Arthur Hills with the ... Read more.

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This Just In: There's A New Outside Column On The Internet And I Wrote It!

Good morning!  Hey, would you look at that, it's a new Outside column!


Basically, it's all about how the importance of making eye contact with drivers is yet another in the endless series of myths to which cyclists are subjected.

Also, I'd like to address this comment from yesterday's post:

Anonymous said...

Why is the suspension-correction bugging you? Sheesh, you are really pin-holing yourself as a real bike-... idk... downer, not a snob. Get on a bmx for a day and have some fun! Do a f*#!n wheelie already.

November 29, 2017 at 1:32 AM

Oh please, I was popping wheelies on BMX bikes before you were even born:


Unless you're older than me, in which case I probably wasn't.

Anyway I rode a skateboard to Petco last night so who's embracing their inner child now?

And with that I'm off to do some wheel-swapping and product-testing, and I'll report back in due course.

I love you,


--Wildcat Rock Machine




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GAM Player of the Year: Julie Massa

GAM Player of the Year: Julie Massa Top Senior Woman for Third Consecutive Year FARMINGTON ... Read more.

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Footjoy Wintersof Golf Gloves

  Footjoy Wintersof Golf Gloves Footjoy Wintersof Golf Gloves are not only my on-course gamers, ... Read more.

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Selecting & Practising Piano Exam Repertoire: ABRSM Grade 5

Continuing with my series examining effective exam programming combined with five tips for the suggested listed pieces,  ABRSM Grade 5 is the focus today. Some of my tips could be applied to similar repertoire, so if you’ve already settled on your programme, you might be able to use some of the ideas mentioned here. These pieces come from the Piano Exam Pieces volume published by the ABRSM (as shown to the left).

List A: A 3, Waltz in A J. 146, (No. 4 from Sechs Favoritwaltzer) by Carl Maria von Weber (1786 – 1826)

German composer Weber, who studied with Haydn, was a fine pianist, although he was primarily known as an opera composer. ‘Six favourite waltzes of the Queen of France, Marie Louise’ were written in 1812; this piece exemplifies perfectly Weber’s ebullient style, demanding utmost precision, virtuosity and delicacy from the performer. Why not start by learning and practising the scale and arpeggio of A major (key of the piece)?

  1. The Trio (or middle section) has a distinctly different character from the outer sections; the opening is full of elegance and grace, whereas the middle section is rather dramatic, dark and almost sinister with its rhythmic insistence and minor key (A minor; again, perhaps explore this key too by working at the scale and arpeggio).
  2. The opening consists of an elegant theme and accompaniment. Aim to block out (play all at once) the left hand quaver patterned Alberti Bass (broken chord or arpeggiated accompaniment); playing one chord per bar, where possible), noting fingerings and position changes (this could also be done from bars 17 – 24 too). Then, taking a very slow practice speed, using a deep touch, ensure each quaver is played heavily, allowing a flexible wrist and lateral wrist movement between each note at the start, to quell any potential tension. When speed is added, lighten the touch; it may be necessary to break any wrist tension either at the end of every bar (to start with) or after each group of four bars. This can be done be releasing the hand and wrist’s ‘grip’, creating a very slight break or hiatus (only for a split second), allowing relaxation. If this proves tricky, practice by resting the arm down by the side of the body during each four bar mini-break (which you will have created if practising using this method).
  3. The melody (right hand) requires a very smooth legato, observing the four bar phrase structure with care. Accents (in bars 2 & 4) help shape the tune, and the acciaccaturas can bounce swiftly onto the main crotchet beat, adding a playful touch. It may be prudent to practice the quaver runs heavily securing all fingering, but when played up to speed, these rapid figurations must be light, delicate and graceful. Resist any temptation to accent the second and third beats of the bar, and turn the thumb under the hand flexibly, so as to avoid lumpy, jerky hand turns.
  4. Balance between the hands might take some work; a cantabile (singing) right hand will really enhance any performance, whilst the left hand can be light and soft. I find it helpful to reverse touches in this instance (left hand, cantabile, with the right hand playing softly, then adding non-legato coupled with legato into the mix).
  5. The left hand arpeggiated chords in the Trio need some kick and swagger; aim for a quick lateral movement (from left to right) in the forearm and wrist. Fingers need to be really active though, so that all notes of the chord sound. Keep the left hand thumbs (on the As) powerful but short and detached, throughout. The right hand needs firm touch; place each beat precisely, colouring the melody, with the arpeggiated chords merely adding to the texture.


List B: B 1, Sostenuto in E flat (KK IVb No. 10) by Frederyk Chopin (1810 – 1849)

A short, slip of a piece by the great Polish Romantic composer, but in just one page, many hallmarks of Chopin’s style are clearly displayed. This charming work was written in Paris for a friend and pupil, Emile Gaillard in 1840. In the style of a Waltz, it contains characteristics synonymous with the 19 Waltzes written throughout Chopin’s career. First of all, focus on the E flat major scale and arpeggio. And then the chord of the home key (tonic or chord I), consisting of E flat, G & B flat, followed by the dominant or chord V; B flat, D & F; these appear several times in the first half of the piece (left hand). The work is in binary form (or two sections).

  1. Secure the left hand first; try to learn the fingerings, notes and hand position changes without keeping time or adhering to a pulse. To gauge the leaps and jumps (which waltzes and similar dances often contain), always use larger jumps than necessary (experiment by moving an octave more than written), and once you’ve played the interval, practice it in reverse (i.e. backwards; you could even play the bar backwards, or beat three first). Each bar will need slow work, and after practising a lone bar, try to end on the first beat of the next, to ensure continuity. Always aim to land on each chord in good time. When played up to speed, give the first beat of the bar more promienence, keeping the second and third, lighter.
  2. In the first section (bars 1 – 16), the right hand melody must be cantabile (in a singing style), as often in Chopin’s music. For this, use a very relaxed wrist with the weight of your arm behind each note, playing into each key deeply, as opposed to sliding or skimming over the top. The depth of key, coupled with weight of the arm, will determine the quality of sound, therefore flexible posture, strong fingers, and a keen ear will be important here. Think of the Acciaccaturas as part of the melody line; slightly relaxed rhythmically, as opposed to the more precise ornamentation often found in Baroque music.
  3. Bars 14 & 15 contain a double note passage in the right hand; separate each pair of notes, (from bar 14 last quaver beat), and work at the lower note first, then the upper (alone but with correct fingering). When playing together, play with various touches (staccato, non-legato, etc.) in order that the notes sound at the same time, before focusing on the top line. Try to support the fourth and fifth finger, with the hand and arm, to produce a legato melody.
  4. The left hand melody from bar 16 (upbeat)  might need plentiful separate work; the acciaccaturas tend to dominate; practice without the ornaments to establish shape and fingering, then play them as regular quavers until they have been incorporated successfully. When confident, add speed to each acciaccatura and play ‘lightly’ and swiftly as a scant upbeat to the main quaver pattern. The right hand’s accompaniment requires soft colours and rhythmical placing.
  5. The sustaining pedal is part of the fabric of this piece; listening is the best method! Pedalling on the first beat of each bar might be a good start, then let your ear be your guide. Rubato is a useful addition to the end of phrases (such as bars 15 – 16), but try not to use it constantly, as, even in this genre, too much renders a performance unrhythmical.


List C: C 1, Staccato Beans (No. 2 from Eight Memories in Watercolor) by Tan Dun (1957)

Staccato Beans contains an exuberant vivacity with a Chinese inspired folk melody. Premiered by Chinese pianist Lang Lang in 2003, it has already proved a favourite on this syllabus. Written by Chinese composer Tan Dun, and set in D minor, dynamic contrasts and melodic inflections abound, providing an excellent exam programme line-up with the Weber and Chopin.

  1. Coordination is paramount, and due to the many different articulation marks, separate hand practice should suffice until fully assimilated. Jumps between sections around the keyboard must also be taken into account, before playing hands together.
  2. The left hand opening quaver pattern has been carefully marked and must be even rhythmically; two slurred quavers followed by two staccato. Once the overall chordal patterns have been learned (particularly at bars 1 – 8 and 24 – 34),  play legato at first, then work at the articulation, allowing a free wrist (as often mentioned here!); avoid locking-up whilst playing repetitive patterns of any kind; find places in the music to break any tension and release the wrist.
  3. The right hand melody is heavily articulated, a bold touch with added shape and definition courtesy of the accent markings is ideal. When playing staccato, try not to rush from one note to the next. This can happen when playing in a detached manner, as the shortening of a note can allow the next to be sounded too quickly. Avoid this by counting meticulously, ‘feeling’ the pulse.
  4. The left hand minims at bars 13 – 18 must be held for the entire bar, as they provide the bottom of the harmony. Coordination may need attention, so the middle Cs above, are well placed rhythmically with the correct articulation.
  5. Sforzandos are the key to a successful interpretation; accents in the right hand, at bars 26 – 43 particularly, need highlighting with a brusque, sharp timbre, bringing the Chinese characterisation to the fore. This is especially true of the passagework in the high register of the instrument (at bars 40 – 43, for example). When the melody repeats (bars 44 – 61), softer colours can be employed. Keep the sustaining pedal to a minimum; a dry, austere sound mimics the folk-song semblance nicely.

My Publications:

For much more information about how to practice piano repertoire, take a look at my two-book piano course, Play it again: PIANO (Schott). Covering a huge array of styles and genres, 49 progressive pieces from approximately Grade 1 – 8 level are featured, with at least two pages of practice tips for every piece. A convenient and beneficial course for students of any age, with or without a teacher, and it can also be used alongside piano examination syllabuses too.

You can find out more about my other piano publications and compositions here.


 




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Tuesday, November 28, 2017

What is Hero Motocorp and Why Are They Sponsoring A Golf Tournament?

The current sponsor of Tiger’s World Challenge Tournament is Hero Motocorp, an India-based motorcycle and scooter manufacturer. ... Read more.

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No Holds Barred

Okay, so further to yesterday's post, let's talk about handlebars now:


Back in November 2015--so two years ago now, time sure does fly like a motorized Cancellara, doesn't it?--I took delivery of a Marin Pine Mountain 1 (now just the "Pine Mountan"):


I wanted to try the Renovo because it isn't often you get to ride a $10,000 wooden bike with push-button shifting, but I jumped at the opportunity to test the Marin because it was very much in line with my sensibilities.  Specifically:

--It was metal;
--It was cheap;
--It was rigid (or, in Craigslist speak, "ridged");
--It had "standard" dropout spacing and quick release hubs;

Moreover, it had those plus-sized tires I'd been curious about, as well as a single-ring, wide-range drivetrain.  (I'd been riding a self-curated artisanal 1x9 on my geared mountain bike for quite awhile, but doing away with jump-stops and chainstays wrapped in inner tubes seemed like an attractive proposition.)

Unsurprisingly, the Marin won me over in short order, and not only did I proceed to purchase it with actual money but I also retired my geared mountain bike.  In fact I liked it so much I became inclined towards using it for longer rides, because there's just something about those chubby tires that makes you want to ramble.  However, this revealed one shortcoming, which was a lack of hand positions.

See, picking your way through rocky terrain is one thing, but when you're putting in miles getting to and from that terrain you want to be able to move your hands around.  Also, it's much more comfortable to keep your hands and wrists at an angle, which is why you spend a lot of time on your hoods when you ride a road bike, and also why bars like this are awesome:


So, thinking about where I wished I could rest my hands on these longer rides, it became increasingly clear that what I needed was this:


I must have mentioned this in a post at some point, then I wrote my controversial (and of course correct) Outside column about suspension, and as a result of both Jones reached out to me and now Ol' Piney looks like this:


I've still got some work to do on these bars.  For example, Jones recommends going even shorter on the stem in order to attain the upright position he espouses:



So I've got a stubby stem on order and as soon as it arrives I'll give it a try.  I also intend to tape the lower inner portion of the bars, since I really do find myself using all those hand positions.

Speaking of hand positions, those pending tweaks notwithstanding, the bars immediately did what I hoped they would.  Specifically, they turned the Marin from a mountain bike that was also okay to ride to and from the trails into--well, into an actual bike.  You know, something you'd want to ride even if you weren't planning on doing any "technical" riding that day.  In fact, if I wasn't a total bike weenie I could probably use Ol' Piney for pretty much all of my riding and not miss a thing, especially if I set up some 29er wheels with narrower, slick tires for more pavement-oriented rides.  (However, I am a total bike weenie, so obviously only having one is never going to happen.)

Indeed, the worst thing I can say about the Jones bars is that they're clearly a gateway drug to getting a Jones bicycle.  Sure, the Marin is quite capable, but somehow with the Jones bar on there the pointlessness of that jacked-up suspension-corrected fork really bugs me in a way it didn't before.  Certainly as someone who prefers rigid bicycles I can't help wanting a go-anywhere bike that's designed to be rigid.  I mean as far as riding goes this is pretty much where I'm at right now:



Then again, I should probably come to terms with the fact that as busy as I am parenting and running a one-Fred media empire the Marin serves my current sub-epic approach to cycling just fine.  Speaking of which, a reader had this to say yesterday:

Anonymous said...

"...there are people in this world who like to buy expensive bicycles and that's ultimately a good thing for the rest of us so long may they spend."

I disagree. The fact that there are people out there willing to drop a shit ton of money on bicycles is why we're sold all sorts of pointless new upgrades and component standards, and why people think they need hydraulic disc brakes and carbon frames, etc.

Also, being self-aware and self-deprecating about the fact that you're riding and reviewing a $10,000 wooden road bike doesn't change the fact that you're riding and reviewing a $10,000 wooden road bike.

November 27, 2017 at 10:58 AM

Firstly, I have no compunctions about leveraging my status as a world-renowned bike blogger to play around with bits of cycling exotica.  Secondly, for all my carping about the excesses of the bike industry the fact is we live in an age of unprecedented accessibility when it comes to cycling equipment, and I think Ol' Piney is rolling proof.  It's a cheap bike that will accept pretty much any part in my antiquated parts bin, and all it takes is a handlebar or tire swap to make it your own.  And it's by no means an isolated example: the current Surly lineup alone probably represents more versatility and bang for your buck than the entire retail bicycle landscape did 20 years ago.  But yes, my funky Marin with the kooky bars is objectively a better bike than the Renovo, that's for sure.

In any case, the point of all this is that I really like this handlebar, so there you go.



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Chisinau and Minsk: Two Offbeat Soviet Cities

This year, in my effort to visit every European country, I made trips to two new cities: Chisinau (pronounced KEE-shee-no), the capital of Moldova, and Minsk, the capital of Belarus.

Why pair these cities (and countries) in a single post, even though these trips were months apart? Because of their similarities. Chisinau and Minsk are the capitals of two of the poorest countries in Europe. Both were formerly part of the Soviet Union, yet maintain a very Soviet feeling to this day with clear loyalty to Russia. Both felt like I had gone back in time. And both are off the beaten path for travelers, due in part to significant language barriers.

I even realized I have a lot of similar shots from both cities!

Traffic in Chisinau.

Traffic in Minsk.

Parks in Chisinau.

Parks in Minsk.

Friendship in Chisinau.

Friendship in Minsk.

But beyond the similarities between the two cities, my trips also played out similarly. I only had a little time to spare, and only visited one city within the country, even though I hate traveling that way and try to visit more places whenever I can. Both were stopovers I wasn’t terribly excited about, with more exciting cities (Odessa and Kiev; Vilnius and Tallinn) planned next. And I struggled in both cities, never feeling comfortable in either.

Here’s what I got up to in these cities.

Chisinau, Moldova

I arrived in Chisinau on an Air Moldova flight from Bucharest. As the tiny plane dipped and bobbed, my seat neighbor, a forty-something male, smiled and explained to me that the ride was bumpy because smaller planes are bumpier than larger ones. (As I smiled weakly and thought to myself, “Buddy, I fly for a living.”)

I hopped into one of the airport taxis, watching the outskirts of the city whirl by as I followed our path on Google Maps…then was dumbfounded when he dropped me in a parking lot far from my hostel.

“No,” I told him, showing Google Maps and the star of my accommodation. “Not here. Here. Take me here.”

He grabbed a piece of paper, wrote down a number, and handed it to me.

“1,3 km.”

Are you fucking kidding me? “No,” I snapped. “No. I’m not walking that far with a suitcase. Take me here.”

After a few minutes of arguing, neither of us understanding the other’s language, he finally acquiesced and drove me to the quiet suburban street where the star was…but where there was absolutely no sign of any hostel.

A few minutes of searching revealed that a hostel was located behind a fence, and I made my way inside. I grabbed my keys, dropped my bag in my private room (which, to my disappointment, was located off the dorm and far from the sole bathroom), and went out exploring.

Chisinau’s main street was surrounded by gray, crumbling, blocky Soviet buildings and torn-up sidewalks. An old man walking next to me suddenly unzipped his fly and began urinating on a staircase. Food stands would have “pizza” in their name but not actually sell any. And when I saw the roadside stands, I was bemused by the t-shirts for sale: Putin in sunglasses. Putin with a machine gun. Putin in karate gear kicking Obama in the face.

Bleak was the word that kept running through my head. I’ve always felt like Eastern Europe stereotypes were massively overblown, but Chisinau felt so depressing, it was pulling me down. Even strolling through the parks couldn’t lift my spirits.

By the end of my first afternoon, I thought to myself, “How the hell am I going to spend three days here?”

But did Chisinau get better? Yes, it did. 

First off, Moldova has some of the most outstandingly delicious red wine I’ve ever tasted. Seriously, it could go head to head with Italy and France and Napa, and a glass won’t cost you more than a few dollars.

Unfortunately, nearby Cricova Winery was not accepting guests, but I went to a little wine shop called Carpe Diem and got to sample several local libations. It’s very expensive by Moldovan standards — I think I paid around $15 USD for five generous pours — but with so little to do in the city, I didn’t mind the splurge.

The National Art Museum of Moldova was tiny but lovely, featuring art by both local and international artists.

And I spent a good chunk of time at Tucano Coffee, arguably the coolest cafe in Chisinau, but more like a Starbucks than anything else.

As a solo female traveler in Moldova, I felt safe for the most part — aside from the unlit streets and barking stray dogs surrounding the hostel. But when it came time to plan a day trip to Orhei Vechi, just outside the city, I was told that the options were either to wait around hours for the returning minibus (no thanks) or to hire a private driver for 50 to 100 euros.

Now, this wasn’t a car service or tour you could book online — this was just “some guy with a car” that the hostel owner knew. I’ll often say yes to that when I’m traveling with someone else, but when I’m traveling solo, that’s where I hesitate. Sometimes I decide to go for it — like when I was in Albania, there was no connecting bus in Fier, and I just hired a random guy with a van to take me to Berat. But I felt very comfortable in Albania. And other times, like when I wanted to visit Preah Vihear in Cambodia but got the “some guy with a car” option, I decided to skip it, as my third trip to Cambodia had been defined by extortion and robbery.

Moldova is not a place where I felt comfortable being alone in a car with a strange man — and for that reason, I decided not to go to Orhei Vechi at all. Nor the quasi-republic of Transnistria, which I regret a bit, but it was just too logistically difficult.

Eventually, I departed Chisinau by bus to the gorgeous city of Odessa, Ukraine. Finding the right bus and buying my ticket was a bit of a challenge with the language barrier, but the border crossing couldn’t have been easier.

Minsk, Belarus

There’s one reference about Minsk that everyone in my generation knows: it’s where Phoebe’s boyfriend David the scientist moved! The statues of Lenin reminded him of her beauty! Wait, you all know I’m talking about Friends, right?

First things first: Belarus can be tricky without a visa for most nationalities, but currently it’s possible for US citizens to visit visa-free if 1) they arrive and depart by air, not via Russia 2) they stay for less than five days 3) they obtain medical insurance covering 10,000 euros.

I arrived in Minsk on a Belavia flight from Helsinki. And let me say that immigration will not be happy when you pull out phone to show your onward ticket and World Nomads travel insurance policy on your phone. I got yelled at a lot. Print them both out! (And if you don’t have travel insurance, there’s a place by immigration where you can buy it.)

Minsk was overwhelming from the start. My cab driver dragged me all over the airport before getting me to leave the city, and he had a hard time finding where to drop me off, then I had major trouble finding my apartment. The language barrier was strong — the young man who let me into the apartment and I had to use Google Translate to communicate.

If I hadn’t had a knowledge of Cyrillic from my previous trips to Eastern Europe, I would have been completely lost.

I was lucky that I actually had internet in the apartment, though — almost everywhere in Minsk requires you to have a SIM card in order to access wifi (they send passwords via SMS). As someone who uses wifi to navigate her way everywhere, I found it a bit frustrating having to do all my research in advance at the apartment and then wing it for the rest of the day. A throwback to the travel style of yore!

The strange thing about Belarus is that there are two official languages — Russian and Belarusian — and the metro stations each have Russian and Belarusian names, which are often totally different. For example, one station can be called either “Plošča Lenina” or “Vakzalnaja.” And then the train might announce the station in one language but the signs are in the other language! You basically have to memorize both names and double-check.

I was initially planning to leave Minsk by train to Vilnius, Lithuania, and spent a long time painstakingly buying a train ticket, writing down what I thought was “Vilnius” in Cyrillic, then confusing the lady even more.

Then, thankfully, one of my readers pointed out that under this visa-free scheme, I had to leave by plane as well. I double-checked online and she was right! It was insane — the US State Dept site only says that you must enter Belarus by air, not depart by air. The Belarus Embassy in the US site, however, does say that you must depart by air as well.

That is a major oversight and I’m shocked that the US State Department would omit such critical information. Had I taken that train to the border, I would have been in a LOT of trouble. At any rate, I am dearly thankful to my dear reader and I am buying her dinner if our paths ever cross. I was able to get a flight to Vilnius for about $60.

But did Minsk get better? Yes, it actually did.

I grew to appreciate the grandeur of Minsk. It wasn’t on the level of anywhere in Ukraine, but I loved the wide avenues, large buildings, and how the bright yellows played against the blue sky.

I loved discovering that Belarusian women love buying flowers. There were tons of flower stands in the underground passageways throughout the city.

I found an adorable coffeeshop called Uptopiya 60 — and they were the only place in the city where I didn’t need a SIM card to get wifi access! Which meant I could actually summon an Uber to take me to the airport!

But for me, the biggest highlight was walking along the river. It was a gorgeous day and I loved seeing people out and about — the amorous couples, the bickering mothers and daughters, the twenty-something guys taking super-serious selfies gazing into the distance.

Could I have done more in Minsk? Absolutely. There are so many museums and viewpoints and day trips I could have experienced. There just wasn’t enough time on this trip.

The Takeaway

To be frank, I doubt I’ll be returning to Chisinau or Minsk. If a cool opportunity arises, perhaps, but I doubt either city has enough draw to pull me back. Could I have done a better job exploring either city (and country)? Absolutely! I’ll be the first to point out that I didn’t do nearly enough!

But does that mean that I have to return and do it right? We all have a finite amount of time on this planet, and I plan to spend mine exploring new and beloved destinations, rather than returning to do Moldova and Belarus over again.

Even so, I’m glad I went to both Chisinau and Minsk. Both felt like traveling back in time; both gave me an idea of what it was like to live behind the shadow of the Soviet Union. Both were a reminder that Europe isn’t all pretty old towns and tourism-driven cities.

If Chisinau or Minsk seem to be your kind of place, I think you should definitely go! But if you’d like something still Eastern European and off the beaten path and a bit like a time capsule but perhaps a little bit nicer and easier to travel, I wholeheartedly recommend Tirana, Albania; Skopje, Macedonia; and Kiev and Odessa, Ukraine.


READ NEXT: The Funk Factor of Tirana, Albania


Essential Info: In Chisinau I stayed at Chisinau Chill Hostel, which was decent, but I would prefer to stay in a nicer place in a better location next time. Do note that the only private room is off the dorm, so you have to walk through the dorm in order to go to the bathroom or anywhere else. The surrounding streets are unlit at night, so be sure to get back before it gets dark. There are several stray dogs in the neighborhood. Dorms from $6; private with shared bath from $22.

Admission to the National Art Museum is 10 Moldovan leu ($0.50).

In Minsk I stayed at Minsk Centre Apartment, a nice and central one-bedroom apartment. The hardest part was arranging the arrival and key drop-off, since Minsk has almost no internet available without a SIM card. Full apartment from $37 per night.

Travel insurance is vital for trips, and it’s a legal requirement for visiting Belarus. Whether you get appendicitis and need to be hospitalized, or your phone gets stolen, or an injury means you need to cancel all or part of your trip, travel insurance will help you in your time of need. I use and recommend World Nomads as travel insurance for trips to Moldova and Belarus.

Have you been to Chisinau or Minsk? Or elsewhere in Moldova or Belarus? What did you think?

The post Chisinau and Minsk: Two Offbeat Soviet Cities appeared first on Adventurous Kate.



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